Hiking in the GR5 Grande Traversée des Alpes: trails, map and practical info

The GR5 Grande Traversée des Alpes is one of the most iconic long-distance hiking routes in Europe. Stretching approximately 674 km from Lake Geneva all the way to the Mediterranean coast, this trail takes you through the full length of the French Alps — a journey that covers five departments, crosses four distinct sections, and unfolds over roughly 40 stages. Plan on spending 28 to 35 days on the trail if you're doing the full traverse.

This is not a casual outing. With a cumulative elevation gain of around 50,000 meters, the GR5 is rated very hard and is best suited for experienced hikers who are comfortable with sustained physical effort, multi-week logistics, and variable mountain conditions. That said, for those who are ready for it, the route delivers an experience that's genuinely hard to match anywhere in the world.

The Route

The trail was first marked out in the 1940s and has been refined over the decades into a well-established waymarked route. It runs in a general north-to-south direction, following the natural spine of the Alps rather than cutting across it. The result is a route defined by constant elevation change — long climbs, high passes, and descents into valleys — rather than flat or rolling terrain.

The four main sections of the GR5 each have their own character:

• Lake Geneva to Modane: The northern section eases you into the Alps with the landscapes of the Chablais and Vanoise regions. Expect high alpine meadows, glacial valleys, and the dramatic terrain of the Vanoise National Park.
• Modane to Briançon: This stretch crosses into the Hautes-Alpes and includes some of the highest passes on the route. The terrain becomes more rugged and exposed.
• Briançon to Barcelonnette: A transition zone where the landscape begins to shift — drier, sunnier, with a distinctly southern feel starting to emerge.
• Barcelonnette to Nice: The final section drops through the Mercantour National Park and into the Maritime Alps before finishing on the Mediterranean coast. The contrast between the alpine start and the Mediterranean finish is one of the defining experiences of the GR5.

Terrain and Conditions

The GR5 crosses a wide range of terrain over its length. In the northern sections, you'll encounter snowfields and glaciated areas well into summer — crampons and an ice axe are sometimes recommended for early-season hikers tackling the high passes. Further south, the trail becomes drier and rockier, with exposed ridgelines and long stretches above treeline.

The trail is well-marked with the standard French GR red-and-white blazes throughout, and the route passes through or near numerous mountain villages and refuges, which makes resupply and overnight accommodation manageable without carrying a full camping kit — though many hikers do carry a tent for flexibility.

Planning Your Traverse

The classic window for hiking the GR5 is mid-July through mid-September. Starting too early means dealing with significant snowpack on the high passes, particularly in the northern sections. Starting too late risks catching early autumn storms and finding some mountain refuges already closed for the season.

Most hikers travel north to south — Lake Geneva to Nice — which means you're moving with the season as you go, arriving in the warmer, drier south as summer winds down. The 28 to 35 day estimate assumes a reasonable daily pace with rest days built in; strong hikers have completed it faster, but the route rewards those who take time to absorb what they're moving through.

Logistics require real planning. Refuge reservations are strongly recommended, especially in July and August when the trail sees heavy use. Resupply points vary in frequency depending on the section — the northern half has more regular access to villages, while some stretches in the south require carrying more food between stops.

What Makes the GR5 Stand Out

What sets the GR5 apart from other long-distance routes is the sheer variety packed into a single continuous trail. You start at the edge of Lake Geneva, cross through two national parks — Vanoise and Mercantour — traverse some of the highest terrain in the Western Alps, and finish within reach of the sea. The landscape shifts dramatically over the course of the journey, from lush northern valleys to the stark, sun-bleached terrain of the southern Alps.

The route also passes through living mountain communities — small villages, working farms, and alpine refuges staffed by people who spend their summers in the high country. That human element, woven into the landscape, gives the GR5 a texture that purely wilderness routes don't always have.

For experienced hikers looking for a multi-week challenge that combines serious mountain terrain with genuine cultural depth, the GR5 Grande Traversée des Alpes delivers on every front.